Here's Looking at You, Kid...

 April 26, 2025
Casablanca, Morocco

"Round up the usual suspects." ~ Police Captain Louis Renault

Not really Rick's Cafe, but even 80 years after the iconic movie, this gin joint still packs 'em in!

Casablanca still calls to mind unrequited love and old time Hollywood glamour. Yes, I'll confess it. The DH and I watched the movie on the TV in our cabin before we arrived in this Moroccan port. Our guide Azizz made sure we got to see the latest version of Rick's Cafe. Even though we know it's not the real one, we still enjoyed seeing the latest incarnation in our drive by. Some of the other passengers on the Sky made reservations to eat there, but our excursion focused on the very real King Hassan II mosque. 

 

Known as the Mosque on the Sea, this incredible structure was completed in less than a decade using local artisans and builders for the ornate interior and exterior mosaics.

Since we knew we were making an inside visit to the mosque, we made sure to dress conservatively. Azizz told us that women weren't required to cover their heads unless they wished. I'd brought a scarf, so I wore it. I may not share the Islamic faith, but it costs me very little to honor their tradition for the length of time I visited their house of worship. After all, they were flexible enough not to consign me strictly to the women's section of the building. It's located on the second floor, a wrap around balcony behind a screen that will hold 5000 female worshipers. 

Azizz says they spoil their women. They are not required to pray in the mosque. When the call is heard five times a day, they may make their ablution and prayers at home.

 Inside the mosque, we removed our shoes and walked stocking-footed on the light pink carpet. Azizz gave us a primer on the order of their prayer service. The imam recites a prayer, which is repeated by those gathered, starting in standing position. 

Eventually, with successive prayers, the worshippers end up kneeling with their foreheads on the ground. After prayer, the imam delivers a 20-30 minute sermon and the service is concluded. 

Sadly, there is no music involved. It's hard for me to imagine worship without it. 

Azizz & an ablution station

Then we were taken to the lower level of the mosque where the ablution stations were located. Before going up to prayer, the faithful made "small ablution," symbolically washing their hands, face, mouth, eyes, and feet. 

I hope you'll take a minute and watch the DH's montage. There are lots of close up photos of the exquisite embellishment that adorns all surfaces in the mosque.

Our tour continued through the city to a small souk, then to the "new" Old Medina. Moroccan houses traditionally are plain and boxy from the outside, with few windows and unremarkable doors. Inside, they often have open-to-the-sky courtyards and are opulently beautiful. According to Azizz, because of the lack of obvious ostentation, people of all economic strata can comfortably live near each other. It's considered bad form to flaunt one's wealth. 

We'd just driven past His Majesty's palace, a place that lives up to its name. "What about the king?" someone wanted to know. 

Azizz grinned. "It's good to be king!" 

I really enjoyed getting to know Azizz. He told us that when the rest of the Muslim world was experiencing an "Arab Spring," nothing happened in Morocco. They are Suni, not Shiia. 

"Islam Light," Azizz says. He emphasized that, as People of the Book, Muslims share the same God as Jews and Christians. He made many protestations of friendship to the west which I believe to be genuine. Morocco simply wants to be left alone when it comes to a struggle between other monotheistic religions. That made me feel hopeful until we walked past a bookstore and I noticed a book displayed prominently beside gold-leafed Korans. 

It was an Arabic translation of "Meine Kampf," complete with a photo of Hitler on the cover.

I'll never believe in book banning, but it's a shame this one still finds a readership.