Day 108 ~ Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous

 April 27, 2022

70-ish and mostly sunny. What a nice change from 2018 when we were cloaked in our rain ponchos while we explored "The Rock!" 

Yacht do you want?
Nauti buoy.
Monaco floats my boat.
~ Seen on Monaco T-shirts

Monte Carlo is a tender port for us. The Oceania Riviera snugged herself into the only berth big enough for a cruise ship in the harbor that will be choked with private yachts when it's time for the Grand Prix in a few weeks. 

Last time we were here, we toured the Rothschild Villa, dined in Monte Carlo, and visited the church where Princess Grace was both married and buried. After our long day of driving from Livorno to Florence and back yesterday, we decided to do the included walking tour today. Sometimes it's nice not to have haul ourselves on and off a bus multiple times. So we hopped on a tender and began our exploration of old Monaco the locals call "The Rock."

The principality of Monaco is completely surrounded by France on three sides, the Med on the fourth. In fact, all the high rises you see are in Monaco. The small single family homes higher on the hill are in France! A 2 bedroom apartment in Monte Carlo rents for about $4000 a month, unless you are a Monegasque (a citizen of Monaco) in which case the government subsidizes your rent. 

 39,000 people live in a 2 square kilometer area. It's one of the densest populations on earth, yet on the Rock, there is a lovely park and sculpture garden  for the enjoyment of the citizens. . It's near the mansion where Princess Stephanie lives, a pale pink structure we were warned not to photograph. In case we wondered if they were serious about that, there were a couple of Monegasque policemen stationed out front. 

The park was built partially to provide employment during a down time. The Grimaldi's, the ruling family, are highly esteemed because they look after their citizens, and since they opened the casino in 1856, Monegasques pay no income taxes. They are also not allowed to enter the gaming rooms. It seems the Grimaldi's are only interested in fleecing those with foreign passports! There is also a dress code to enter the casino. According to our shore excursion director Rob, "you can look as if you've just stepped from a yacht, but not the beach!" 

We saw a short version of the changing of the guard outside the royal palace and looked down on the twisting course of the Grand Prix, but then Herkimer's battery ran out. We changed it out to another, but I had packed my small one that only provides an hour's charge, so we told our guide we'd leave the tour and walk back to the ship on our own since I didn't have enough battery life to stay longer. The DH scolded me for packing the small battery, but I was trying to spare his back. He's always so good to carry for me.   

When we met up with Kristy and Dave later they'd had a bit of excitement about an hour after we left to return to the ship. Prince Albert (Princess Grace's son) made an appearance at the palace to drive and show off a brand new electric...garbage truck. There were TV reporters recording the event, a band played (which our friends said wasn't as good as their high school band at home!) and they managed to snap a picture of the prince inside the cab of the truck. This was part of the roll out of the new E-Prix--a race of all electric cars that will precede the regular Grand Prix this year. 

The Church of St. Nicholas behind me and the Hall of Justice to the left. Our tour guide told us there is hardly any crime in Monaco because every place is highly surveilled. Big Brother is definitely watching. She said a couple of tourists shoplifted a postcard once. They were followed to their tour bus and the entire group was escorted by police to the border of the principality and told never to return!  

We enjoyed our leisurely stroll back to the ship and had time to take a few more pictures, which is sometimes hard when you're trying to keep up with a group. Accidents happen when you're walking and snapping pictures on uneven cobblestones.

A mural of St. George and the Dragon inside St. Nicholas' Church, where Princess Grace was wed and is buried.  

Only the princes and princesses who ruled Monaco can be buried in this church. When we last visited, Grace Kelly's grave was covered with flowers, obviously cast by many adoring visitors, but her husband's slab was noticeably bare. Prince Rainier was a terrible womanizer by all accounts, but even 40 years after her tragic death, people still love Grace. 

This time both graves were adorned with the same urn and flower arrangement. Do the dead need to be spared embarrassment? Someone felt the need to do away with this disparity. 

But the people of Monaco still love Grace more. This statue of her is new since we visited in 2018. She's shown seated with her hands gracefully open on her lap, as if offering herself to her people, returning the affection with which they continue to shower her.

We were very glad we returned early to the ship because the water had kicked up since we tendered in. The swells gave a 4 ft swing once the tender was snugged next to the Star. By the time Dave and Kristy came back, it was worse. There were four crewmen stationed at the tender egress, hands on the passengers arms, telling them when to step and making sure they make the transit from tender to ship without accident. 

I feel for the crew in this position. It's a dangerous job, making the tender fast and helping people who often aren't very steady on the feet at the best of times across the gap. But everyone disembarked and embarked without incident. The crew of the Star is so diligent and capable! We've always felt safe.

Sea day tomorrow!