Day 96 ~ Rhodes, without the Collosus

April 15, 2022

77 degrees, glorious spring weather though our guide told us last week was very chilly and they had snow in their mountains for the first time in years.

In the serene weather of the tropics it is exceedingly pleasant—the mast-head; nay, to a dreamy meditative man it is delightful. There you stand, a hundred feet above the silent decks, striding along the deep, as if the masts were gigantic stilts, while beneath you and between your legs, as it were, swim the hugest monsters of the sea, even as ships once sailed between the boots of the famous Colossus at old Rhodes. ~ Herman Melville

Rhodes' Colossus statue was a wonder of the ancient world. It once straddled the harbor and ships sailed between its gigantic legs. It is now lost to time, but the defensive works of the Crusader Castle of the Knights Hospitaler are still guarding the harbor.   

Rhodes is the third largest island in the Grecian archipelago, after Crete and Lesbos. It's shaped roughly like a bottle nosed dolphin and is much closer to Asia Minor than it is to the Greek mainland. Over the centuries, it has changed hands many times, but the populace managed to retain their Greek language, culture and Orthodox Christian religion. 

One of the main gates into Old Town

After two days of rest, we were ready to set off on a walking tour of the Old Town and the Grand Master's Palace with our guide, Rula. Kristy was excited about this stop because most of our walking was through their shopping district. But since the DH and I had read about the siege of Rhodes in Crowly's Empires of the Sea, the 16th century history of the island was more interesting to us. 

In 1480 attempts by the Ottomans to take Rhodes were repelled by the Knights Hospitaler, and Grand Master Villiers began to improve the fortifications immediately, but the empire wasn't done with Rhodes. In June1522, an invasion force of seventy thousand landed and began a siege against just 6700 defenders, only 703 of whom were knights. After six months, and massive casualties on both sides, the parties had fought to a standstill. A truce was declared and the Ottomans offered a fair and honorable peace. The knights and all citizens who wished could leave with their arms and goods on 50 ships which would be made available to them. All citizens who wished to remain would not be taxed by the Ottomans for five years and no churches would be defaced or destroyed.  

Amazing mosaic floors in the Grand Master's Palace. 

One of the knights who lived through the siege of Rhodes was Valette, from whom the city of Valetta, Malta takes its name. He became Grand Master of the Knights of Malta and defeated the Ottomans when they tried to invade that island. 

Exploring the world is amazing. Exploring it with friends...priceless!

So many died to claim ownership of the islands scattered through the Med. Why in the world did the Ottomans, the Venetians and Christian Europe care who owned those little dots of land? The answer, then as now, is "Follow the money." The leaders may have dressed it up with religious zealotry, but in the end, it was all about controlling trade routes.

My knight in shining armor with Herkimer strapped to his back. When we're walking on uneven terrain it's impossible to take my portable O2 concentrator in his wheeled cart. I so appreciate him carrying that heavy device for me and even more because I never have to wonder where he is. So many husbands have gone temporarily AWOL on our excursions. It's a comfort to know mine is on a 7 foot tether! 

A wonderful day on a lovely Greek island!