Tuesday, April 18, 2023

Amsterdam--Venice of the North!

March 7, 2023
Drizzly and grey

“In Amsterdam, the water is the mistress and the land the vassal.” – Félix Martí Ibáñez

Back when the DH was still working, he had to go to Amsterdam for a week to get a new office set up for Google, the company he retired from in 2015. And as often happened when he traveled someplace interesting, I got to tag along and play tourist all day. While he slogged away, I was wandering the cobbled streets of this charming city, visiting the Rijksmuseum, the fascinating Biblical Museum, and the Van Gogh Museum, weeping through Anne Frank's secret rooms in the Annex, taking a peek into the mind of a genius in Rembrandt's house and riding on the excellent public trams when I wasn't dodging the ubiquitous bike riders. Honestly, the Netherlands must have the most aerobically fit populace on the planet! 

In that week there, I got a sense of how the Dutch people lived, what was important to them, and what cultural treasures they had to share with the world. Our visit today was, as my friend Kristy likes to say, "a sampler platter." You only get a small taste of what a place is like.


But it was a totally different view of the city for me because today, we took a canal boat tour! Move over, Venice! Amsterdam is the true city of canals and unlike its southern counterpart, which still doesn't have its sewage problems under control, this northern city is pristine by comparison.

Our long canal boat was surprising agile, easily maneuvering the tight turns from one watery "street" to another!

Our guide explained that living on one of the long boats mooring along the sides of the canal was more expensive than having a home in one of the charming, tall and oddly listing-toward-the-street buildings that line the canals. The slight lean forward is intentional because the interior staircases are often too small to bring up large pieces of furniture. Instead, they are hoisted to upper floors from the street and taken in via the windows!


The canal homes run the gamut from aging houseboats to sleek new designs that, while beautiful, don't resemble a vessel at all. The boats and barges are all connected to the city utilities, including water and sewer. Every 4-5 years the steel boat style homes must go into dry dock to check for needed repairs to the hull. It was not unusual to see a small dinghy tethered to the bigger boats, an easy way for residents to travel the canals. Sort of like a Vespa on a rack on the back of a Class A motorhome. 

I was surprised by the amount of traffic in the narrow canals.

Another boat filled with looky-loo's like us! 

Sometimes, the oval openings between canals seemed so small I wondered if our boat would make it through!

All the houses are tall and narrow. The white and yellow horizontal residence in the foreground is one of the "woonarks," barge-like iterations of the houseboat.
 
You'll see a few cars in Amsterdam, but bicycles seem to be the main mode of personal transportation!




Amsterdam is a fascinating place and definitely not one you can understand in an hour long canal tour. Its architecture, art, museums, flower market, and history are so layered and intricate, if my only experience of the city was just this day and this tour, I'd have felt very frustrated. However, since I'd had my boots on the ground in the past, this included Viking tour was a lovely supplement to those memories.


6 comments:

  1. It is a lovely city! Thanks for sharing your photos and experience.

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    1. I wish I could convey all the sensations that come when I walk in Amsterdam. It's at once a city devoted to freedom, with beauties and triumphs of art and culture everywhere. And then there's the open prostitution, which even though it's legal, cannot be said to be non-exploitative. I remember passing by one of the tall houses which had a set of steps descending to a garden level apartment. There in the open doorway, a young woman sat in lingerie, waiting for a stranger to come down the stairs to have sex with her. The look on her face one of the saddest, most soul-killing expressions I'd ever seen.

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    2. oh look you haven't stopped being judgemental of things you don't agree with. how would you like it if people came to your hometown and stood outside your church and said "that is legal but it is the saddest most soul killing thing i have EVER seen. responsible for the death and exploitation of SO many people. besides, isn't your daughter a lesbian. how do you reconcile that?

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    3. Thank you for commenting. I understand not everyone will agree with everything I write. I am recording my remembered observations here, and that young woman in Amsterdam did not look happy in her work. She looked very alone and vulnerable and trapped. I'm not judging her. I feel for her.

      Yes my oldest daughter is lesbian. She also kind, intelligent, loves God and the fine young woman who is her wife, and whom I'm proud to call my daughter-in-law. I don't see how prostitution can be conflated with a committed, loving, same sex relationship. Prostitution is at best transactional, at worst exploitative abuse of someone who is forced into it.

      Quite often, people are assumed to have a whole suite of opinions that supposedly go together. I try not to fall into only one category. I'm sorry my observations have upset you. And I'm sorry the church has hurt you. Deeply sorry.

      Please remember the church is not God. And God doesn't want to hurt you.

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  2. You shouldn't look down on someone else's job. Sex work is work. Period. This is the equivalent of saying that a garbage man or plumber has a soul killing job because their work is "dirty," and something you, personally morally do not like.

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    1. Human trafficking is a serious problem in the world right now. There are untold numbers of women trapped in sex work, not of their own choice, not just in Amsterdam, but in cities and towns and truck stops all over our country as well.

      There was something in that young woman's face that said she didn't want to be there and it has haunted me for years.

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