Stavanger

 March 5, 2023

“I’m a bit biased, as I married a Norwegian, but Norway is an incredible country.” – Edd China

Me, too, Ed. Norway is fascinating and its history and culture shaped incredible people who are deep enough to require a lifetime to know.

Likewise, Norway's special sites are worth more than one visit. Stavanger is one such place. 

Fair winds and following seas...Now that we're back in the southern part of Norway, we're enjoying blues skies and calmer water!

We first visited Stavanger on our Queen Mary 2 cruise in 2019. Back then we did a fjord cruise to view Pulpit Rock and enjoyed our first Norwegian pancakes. This time, we traveled to two historical sites--an Iron Age farm and a medieval monastery.

My favorite Northman!

The Ullandhaug farm pre-dates the Viking era (793-1066), but the way of life probably did not change much from this 350-400 AD farmstead to the time when all the Christians of Europe joined in the fervent prayer "Deliver us, O Lord, from the fury of the Northmen."

Actually, the reason the Northmen went raiding had to do with agriculture. There was not enough arable land along the fjords, so to avoid chopping farmsteads into increasingly tiny pieces, only the eldest son could inherit the family farm. Second sons and on down the birth order had to shift for themselves or rely on the largess of their older brother, so they began to look west to Bretland and the incredibly rich, weakly defended sacred sites.

A layer of birch bark topped with sod kept the family dry.

The longhouse at Ullandhaug is a reconstruction on the original archaeological site. From its stacked stone foundation and packed earth floor to the birch bark covered with sod roof, the dwelling is authentic in every detail. Twenty-five or more people would have lived here communally, probably an extended family group. Everyone in the household would have responsibilities. Believe it or not, the children were in charge of making sure the fire didn't go out!   

A hand mill used for grinding barley, oats and emer wheat. So much stone ended up in the flour, the Iron Age Scandinavian's teeth were worn down by the bread they ate.  

From Ullandhaug we rode across the city of Stavanger and into the countryside to the medieval monastery of Utstein.

Such a peaceful setting 

Originally a stronghold of Harald Fair Hair, the monastery was built as part of the Augustinian order in the late 1200's and in its heyday had as many as 12 "silent brothers" in residence. There were twice as many non-holy persons working on the grounds, building, cooking, and farming. Because it was a silent order, there were peep holes build into the walls from the kitchen to the dining hall. No one at the table could call out for the next course, you see, so the staff had to spy on the brothers during their meals!  

In case that's not creepy enough for you, there is supposedly a resident ghost at Utstein. In the 18th century, the monastery fell into the private hands of Christopher and Cecilia Garmann. Sadly, Cecilia died in childbed at the age of 25, but not before extracting a promise from her husband that he would never remarry. Christopher remained single for 20 years before succumbing to the charms of a woman 36 years his junior. To escape Cecelia's notice, he arranged to marry his new wife, not in his home chapel, but in the Stavanger Cathedral. However, the vindictive first wife was not to be scorned. After the ceremony, Cecilia's apparition appeared to him on the cathedral steps. Christopher died 8 days later. 

Cecilia and Christopher Garmann in happier times

Some have reported seeing a woman, or rather the tail of her long, full-skirted white gown slipping just around a corner as they entered one of the upper rooms. So Cecilia's ghost still hasn't found any rest.   

At least that's the tale as it was told to me. I suspect it's been embellished for tourist consumption. 

Don't miss the montage for more of these fascinating places. Maybe you'll catch a glimpse of Cecilia that I missed!