Maputo, Mozambique

 Mar, 28, 2025

"He who rules over men must be just..." 2 Samuel 23:3a

This morning the Sky cruised in to Maputo's deep natural harbor, one of the valuable rarities in eastern Africa. The DH was standing on the balcony and he heard shouting coming from the area not far from our berth, near where there's derelict train station. It's a relic from the days of Portuguese colonization, notable for it's heavy ornate iron dome. 

Later, we wondered if he was hearing some of the unrest that's been boiling in Mozambique's capital recently. In fact, one of our friends onboard told us that 2 protestors were killed here five days ago. The US government ranks the country risk as a "3," which translates to "reconsider travel." 

We've been listening to several lectures by the Viking enrichment team and they all tell the same sad story we've been hearing since we reached Africa. First, they explore the ancient history of the area, the tribalism and lack of contact with the outside world which resulted in stunted technological and cultural development. Then comes the successive periods of foreign powers coming to exploit the wealth of the land and often staying to colonize while subjugating the local populace. 

In the 1960's, Mozambique went to war to free itself from Portugal. They weren't declared independent until 1975 when it simply became too expensive for the Portuguese to continue to fight. Then, though released from servitude to a foreign power, factions within Mozambique launched a bloody civil war that lasted until 1992. Then there was another multi-year civil war that only ended in 2015. In fact, there is yet another armed conflict raging in the northernmost part of the country. (Maputo is located in the southern tip of the country, well away from that danger, but still...)

The last link of this sad chain of events is corruption of the current government, which was ostensibly voted in democratically. Mozambique should be a wealthy country. They have ample natural resources--natural gas, minerals, plenty of arable land, ample fresh water, abundant wildlife (though none of the national parks and preserves are close enough for us to visit from Maputo), and beautiful architecture in their capital (though strangely, none of the Viking excursions would take us to see them.) 

Yet Mozambique falls fifth from the bottom in the Human Development Index list. Life expectancy is only 59. Most of the population lives on less than $2.00 a day. Government corruption is epidemic in Africa and Mozambique is the composite poster child for those who are victimized by the very institution that is supposed to make their lives better. Money flows into this country by the bushel as the natural wealth flows out, without any of it trickling down to the population. It lines the pockets of the ruling elite. 

I have a severe case of FOMO. I'm always afraid of missing out on something. (My dad had a colorful way of describing this particular malady of mine, but I won't share it here. My sisters will remember what I mean...) So it was really hard for me to suggest to the DH that we remain on board the Sky today. 

Part of it was because we weren't going to see anything of significance on the included excursion except a couple of markets. I'm the Anti-Shopper, remember, so this sounds a little like the 9th circle of hell to me. And another reason to stay aboard was that we were strongly discouraged from walking off the ship and exploring on our own. It's simply not safe. We tend to stand out as easy targets. 

And finally, another reason is that I'm fighting a sinus/sore throat issue and it's making me feel really drained of energy. Tomorrow, we have a 7 hour safari in Bonamanzi Game Reserve from Richard's Bay, South Africa.  It's a chance for us to see 4 of the Big Five (leopards, elephants, rhinos, & water buffalo--only lions are missing).

So, I'm being lazy today, resting and drinking plenty of fluids. I'm excited about our excursion tomorrow and the chance to see some of the continent's famous wildlife. 

But probably the biggest reason we've called a "private sea day," is that my heart will not let me see what I know is waiting on shore. The scenes of desperate poverty in Madagascar are etched on my psyche so deeply, helpless tears spring to my eyes. 

I don't want to see more things I can't unsee.