Manzanillo

 

October 17, 2022 

Sweltering temps and humidity...

Sincere apologies to this lovely city. We didn’t feel up to braving the long trek from the ship to the port building and then out to the street. By the time we finished breakfast, it was so very hot and sticky already, and the walk just to get to the street was completely shadeless. 

The temperatures wouldn’t be so bad. We pushed forward in 108 degree weather when we were in Egypt, but it was a dry desert heat. When the humidity is also in the high 90’s , it’s harder for me to breathe. 

Once the sun had cleared the mountains, its light washed most of the blue out of the sky.

I know this is a pathetic excuse for not getting off the ship, but there it is. And the DH’s back is giving him some trouble, so he didn’t mind doing nothing. We declared an unofficial sea day. 

Along with assiduously doing nothing, we managed to see the piano quartet play twice. It’s such a luxury to enjoy live music of this caliber up close and personal. The musicians communicate wordlessly while they play, making eye contact during pivotal moments, swaying together and apart as their instruments’ voices soar and respond to each other. What a treat! 

Our new friends, Kirsten and John, joined us for dinner, bustling with news of their long excursions. They’d had some great experiences up in a small village in the mountains of Mexico. 

I’m sure it was cooler there.

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

 

Oct 16, 2022  

90 degrees, 90% humidity…That’ll slow me down. 

Some things will never change. Some things will always be the same. Lean down your ear upon the earth and listen. ~ from You Can't Go Home Again by Thomas Wolfe 

Last January when we were on the Viking Star, we had a lovely day in Puerto Vallarta. The included excursion that day was a visit to the sea walk’s sculptures and the Our Lady of Guadalupe Cathedral. It was a rich experience, but as usual when you’re on an organized tour, you never get enough time to explore the places you visit. 

Today, we were on our own so we decided to fix that. We walked off the Eurodam and caught a taxi to the waterfront, about 3 ½ miles away. (It cost $10 each way and our American dollars were eagerly accepted.) Our driver let us out near the cathedral because we’d told him we hoped to join in the worship service if it was possible. We'd already viewed it as an outstanding example of colonial architecture, but we were hoping to see it as it was meant to be used--as a place of worship.  He assured us we’d be welcomed. 

Mass was underway, so we slipped into one of the back pews. Parishioners were moving down the center aisle toward the celebrant who was offering communion at the altar. We aren’t Catholic so we didn’t go forward. It was still a quiet time of joining with our God and our fellow Christians. 

A truly lovely soprano voice wafted up to the high ceiling. Light and lilting, she was singing Ave Maria, a piece I’ve sung many times, but instead of Latin, she sang it in Spanish. It was a moment of exquisite joy! 

Then after mass ended, a few families moved toward the front of the cathedral, bringing their babies to be christened. The children were dressed all in white, festooned with lace, like little princes and princesses, surrounded by their extended families. It was clearly a special moment in the lives of these worshippers and I felt so privileged to be there to witness it. 

After “having some church,” we wandered back to the waterfront to check out the public art installations. There was also a unique street musician situation involving three men in traditional garb perched on the top of a pole as tall as the surrounding palm trees. One of them played a penny whistle I could hear from a block or two away, while the other two banged away on drums. 

I wish there had been someone on the ground to explain the behavior and provide a way for us to drop some money in a hat or something. If I am entertained by something, I always want to chip in. 

It was bewildering, but intriguing, and clearly meant something to the men who were performing.

The temps were rising and it was time for lunch, so we caught another cab back to the pier. I had logged about 8K steps on our little jaunt. I have nothing but happy memories from both our visits to Puerto Vallarta! It was a good day all around.

A kind fellow passenger offered to snap our picture while we were doing our rounds on the promenade deck. We never get tired of the wake view behind us!

PS. One thing we discovered that is different about our southern neighbor is that medicines that are "by prescription only" in the states are freely available at the corner drugstore/mini-mart in Mexico. Here is a shopping list that was shoved under our noses when we ducked in to pick up a couple of cold cokes.

We could have walked out with plenty of mood-altering substances as well as some serious pain meds. One of my docs offered me something with codeine in it once. I thanked him but told him, "No, I'm using my brain at the moment."

Take 'em off!

 

October 15, 2022

Warm, Hot, Hotter! And as usual, it's not the heat, it's the humidity!  

“Who was that masked man?” ~ from just about every Lone Ranger episode from my childhood. 

Okay, the "Take 'em off!" title of this post doesn't refer to the DH's towel & trunks. It's about the reversal of the mask mandate on board ship. 

Each day, we saw fewer and fewer guests wearing masks on the Eurodam. It was sort of a quiet rebellion, not pitching a fit, not grumbling or complaining (at least not in public), but steadfastly refusing to strap on the N95 muzzles. in ever increasing numbers. We all still received notes in our cabin mail slot urging everyone to comply, but more and more people seemed to be “round filling” the notices and ignoring the "Mask Required" signs scattered throughout the ship. 

Then, this morning the captain came on the intercom to announce that he’d spoken to the "head office" and they agreed to the end of the masking requirement--as if it hadn't already been effectively ended by the majority of guests. And best of all, this no-mask policy  applied not only to guests, but the crew as well. 

And as happy as I was about this new development, crew members were twice as thrilled. Our cabin steward Amoy was so glad to be able to smile at us face to face. At the Lido Market, some of the ladies ladling out food from behind the counter actually started singing as they worked. I honestly don’t know how there were able to be so productive while having to wear those hellacious N95 masks. 

Of course, if anyone wishes, they can still wear a mask. That is their choice and I support them in it. But I am thrilled to be able to enjoy a more normal cruising experience without trying to inhale through three layers of an N95 mask. 

Everything is so much easier with enough oxygen. I can walk faster, connect with others better and put together more coherent sentences. 

Life is just better with unimpeded breathing.

Sea Day Development

 

Temperatures are definitely rising as we continue to cruise south! We've left the pleasant 60's behind in favor of 80-ish highs

A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles – Tim Cahill 

One of the things we most enjoy about cruising is meeting new people and striking up conversations we hope will lead to friendships. On our Princess WC, we were assigned to Table 60, an 8 top that turned into the “party table,” a congenial group that lingered over our after dinner coffee sharing more stories and laughs. And when we cruised with Viking earlier this year, we had our traveling buddies, Kristy and Dave, as our immediate “tribe.” 

But here on the Eurodam, while we were assigned to an eight top table, we only had two table mates for one night, Alan and Rob. When we sat down, they told us they’d already changed their reservation from Early Seating to “Anytime Dining,” so that was the only evening we’d dine together. 

So we decided to find our own party and when we ran into Kirsten and John, with whom we'd had lunch on the first day, we invited them to join us at Table 8, a 4 top we’d been switched to. (Being the only couple at an 8 top feels terribly conspicuous.) Turns out, Kirsten and John were sitting by themselves too, so this is good for everybody!

It's been nice to get to know this couple from Renton, WA and makes this cruise feel more like the traditional voyages we've enjoyed in the past.

Boy, am I resistant to change! 

San Diego with Friends!

 70 degrees with 85% humidity, hazy skies...feels a little like the Ozarks

"Good friends are like stars. You don't always see them, but they're always there." ~ Anonymous

Today our dear friends Kristy and Dave, with whom we sailed on the Viking Star earlier this year, drove down to meet us in San Diego for lunch and a little catching up. They are always such fun! 

They picked us up at the pier and we drove down to The Fish Market, a great sea food place right next to where the USS Midway is berthed. We snapped some photos of the over-sized iconic statue of the returning sailor laying a lip-lock on a nurse 

Then we wandered through the statue garden honoring Bob Hope. Along with the great comedian, there was a bronze audience of other statues from all branches of service. One was holding a sign that read:

Thanks for the Memories!

We passed a good time over our seafood and then headed for a short drive to Point Loma and the Cabrillo National Monument. This was a bittersweet drive for Kristy because she used to help her mom, who was a teacher and is gone now, take her classes on field trips to the area. They'd visit the historic lighthouse and the statue of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo who, in 1542. became the first European to set foot on the western coast of what's now the US.

The Point offers expansive views of downtown San Diego and even as far as the port where the Eurodam  is docked. Unfortunately, today with the lowering skies and haze, the view was not as spectacular as Kristy assured me it is, but I cannot begrudge southern California moisture in any form. A little mist and humidity is good for all the green, growing things and will cut down on their fire danger if the Santa Ana winds kick up.  

It was hard to say goodbye, but I have every hope of seeing Kristy and Dave again! In 2024 around the time of the solar eclipse, if not sooner. 

No, you're not seeing things. That harbor cruising pleasure craft actually has a couple of Kraken arms snaking up the masts! 

Today is a turn around day, with some passengers disembarking and new ones arriving on the ship. And, as I feared, our captain just came over the intercom to tell everyone we have to wear masks on the ship for the rest of the cruise! 

OUT OF AN ABUNDANCE OF CAUTION!

Honestly, if cruisers were cautious people we'd all be sitting at home studying our own navels. 

And that's all I have to say about that...for now. 

Blue Planet

 What's better than watching the Blue Planet on TV?

Watching it on the big screen in the Eurodam's theatre with orchestral accompaniment composed by Hans Zimmer and augmented by the ship's own piano quartet! 

Tonight we were treated to stunning underwater photography, showing us weird and wonderful creatures from the ocean's floor. It always amazes me how often those unseen things that thrive in those dark, cold depths are alive with color and inventive shapes and body styles. As a Christian, I feel it points me to a loving and creative God who is endlessly working in unseen ways.  

And in another segment, we followed the trials of a mother walrus and her calf as they sought some place, either an ice floe or pebbled beach, to rest. At one point, the calf was so exhausted it sank beneath the waves. Its mother scooped it up with her front flippers, and clasped it to her to hold its nose above water, while treading to stay afloat with just her hind flippers. Obviously, the walrus is capable of great feeling and compassion for her baby.

Hugh Ross, an astrophysicist, describes this type of living creature in his book, Why the Universe is the Way it is:

Genesis 1 also refers to the physical and soulish category of life by the Hebrew term "nepesh."   This is the word used for “soulish” creatures, or animals with the capacity for a limited range of thought, choice, and feeling

"Soulish" seems like a good word to describe certain types of creatures. Just as we are a little lower than the angels, so they are a little lower than we. But only a little. 

Anyway, seeing this incredible program has made me feel ashamed of my fussiness over the whole masking debacle. I'm still chafing under it, but now I realize instead of grumbling,  I need to look at the beautiful, the exciting, the wondrous things I'm privileged to enjoy.

Again, I apologize for the lack of photos. We've opted not to purchase Wifi on the ship because it's spendy and unreliable. This is not a problem unique to HAL. It seems all ships are experiencing problems right now that probably have to do with increased solar activity. I will add photos once we get home.  

The Charm of a Sea Day

 

“Any day you can see the ocean is a day of vacation…”

Another lovely sea day.

This is Lovejoy, and as her name suggests, she's a delight--always happy, always welcoming. And an incredible omelet maker!

Some people hate them because they fear they’ll be bored. For us, it’s a chance to do nothing with zero guilt. We can read. Take in a class that interests us. Take a nap—something I never do at home.

But if I need to be entertained, there’s an abundance of organized activities—trivia, bridge lessons, dance classes, photography classes, afternoon tea, exercise classes…a person could wear themselves out trying to do everything.

Which is what I used to do.

I’d have an activity chosen for every hour of the day. It’s exhausting.

Maybe this attitude is proof I belong on the “old farts” line. Or maybe its that I’ve realized I control my cruising experience by cherry picking what I do or don’t do. I need time to be quiet, to reflect, and, if I’m honest, to put my feet up.

Today for example, I’ve used the morning to get these blog posts ready to be uploaded when we reach San Diego. The DH woke with the start of a migraine (possibly brought on by having to wear an N95 mask?) so after breakfast, he’s been resting in our darkened stateroom.

In a little bit, we’ll wander up to the Lido Market for buffet lunch. At 12:30, we’ll attend the champagne art auction (remember, a flute of something bubbly in our hands means we can take off our masks).  We may venture into the thermal suite after that. At 4:30, the strings and piano will be playing Mozart, and our evening dining time is 5:30. The evening show features One Step, a dance troop. And after that, if we feel like it, a comedian is performing “Mid-Laugh Crisis” at BB King’s Blues Club.

Can any day go wrong if it ends with a pavlova?

As our youngest daughter would say, “Sounds like a plan.”

Making the Best of Things

 Somewhere along the Oregon coastline...

After the Bait and Switch of the Eurodam’s new masking policy, we’ve found ways to work around it. A kind crewman gave me a couple of his thinner masks to use. I cut a hole in the DH’s N95 mask so he can breathe. (Thanks again to my friend Marcy who gave me a traveling sewing kit with a tiny pair of scissors back in 2018 before our first World Cruise!) They can make us wear them, but "They" can’t keep us from altering them.

And we can always shed them if we carry a protective glass of iced tea with us everywhere we go.

Or we can spend all our time eating, because everyone knows as long as there is food on a plate in front of you, no self-respecting Covid virus will venture near you. No mask needed here!

Another place we didn’t wear them was at the art class we attended yesterday. As usual, the process is more important than the product. It was a fun experience. Several other “artists” took off their masks, as did our teacher, so we threw our “abundance of caution” out the window and followed suit. Around the ship, I’ve seen several people without them. Last night at the theatre, as soon as everyone was seated, almost all the masks came off.

This is not the finished product. Our teacher advised us to snap photos at various stages so the process is clear in our minds for future reference.

The entertainment was provided by UNITY, a quartet of men with Broadway and West End credits. They had a wonderful blend and offered a lovely program of songs from Les Miserables, Phantom of the Opera, and a host of others.

Buckets of talent in this group!

Another entertainment venue we love is Lincoln Center Stage where a piano quartet, which consists of a piano, violin, viola, and a cello offer beautifully performed classics to moderns.

Live music is one area in which Holland America continues to excel. I'd go so far as to say it's their saving grace at present...

Vancouver--The Beautiful City on the Sound

 "Hello, Buoys!" ~ Seen on a T-shirt

Last night was a wild one on the Eurodam. Along with folks like us who are going to be on the ship until Fort Lauderdale, there were hundreds who embarked in Seattle for a one night cruise to Vancouver. It was a decidedly younger crowd and the partying went on till the wee hours.

Of course, I only know this by hearsay. The DH and I skipped the show, spent a relaxing time in the thermal suite and fell asleep on the heated stone loungers. We were in bed by 9, rocked to sleep by the gentle vibrations of the Eurodam as she cruised in slow circles to her first port of call. 

Unlimited access to the thermal suite for the length of the cruise was $349 a piece. This may seem like an indulgence, and it is, but we're not drinkers and we don't gamble, so this is our big splurge on board.

We decided not to do an excursion because within easy walking distance, there was a float plane company with half a dozen planes tied up on a wharf. After earning his private pilot’s license, the DH actually took a lesson in a float plane when we lived in Seattle. That was one flight I begged off on. I don’t like the idea of landing on water, but he had fun with it.

Today it was enough to watch the landings and take-offs up close.

After watching a while, we strolled around the downtown waterfront. Vancouver is a lovely place, clean and with an interesting mix architecture.

Our photography instructor on the Viking Star told us to look for reflections. We didn't have to look far in Vancouver! 

The mural art gave a hearty nod to the Pacific Northwest's indigenous peoples and animals. I love this sort of thing just as thoroughly as I despise graffiti! This art is "meant," while graffiti makes use of stolen space and is often angry in tone.

We were back on the ship by lunchtime so we could visit the thermal suite again. It really helps with back pain and offers general relaxation.

Lovely fall colors!

I needed to relax after I read the note that was left in our stateroom. HAL is requiring us to wear masks in all venues. Unless, of course, we are eating or holding a drink. In those circumstances, the covid virus magically disappears.

Prior to boarding, HAL had relaxed its testing policy so we who are thoroughly vaxxed didn’t have to test. They allowed people who are not vaccinated to board after presenting a negative test result conducted within 2 days of embarkation. The excuse they give for laying this draconian edict on those of us who came aboard expecting cruising as we know and love it was this:

“Out of an abundance of caution, we will be requiring guests on board to wear face masks while indoors for at least the first 7 days of our voyage.”

If they had instituted this policy in Seattle, I would have been sorely tempted not to board. But obviously, HAL is so desperate to shed its stodgy, “old farts” reputation, it couldn’t muzzle the party people who were only on board for one night.

To add further insult to injury, the masks HAL is providing for us are those hateful N95 things. I cannot use them because too much CO2 collects and I need all the O2 I can get. Even the DH gets lightheaded with the DAM things. (On Holland America, DAM is a popular swear word since it’s what all their ships' names end with.)

Covid is no longer the death threat it started out to be. I tested positive for it on August 2, 2022 and negative by August 21, 2022. It was like an inconvenient head cold. Even with my serious lung issues, it was not a big deal.

I am deeply disappointed with HAL over this intrusive, nanny-like policy. When we embarked on the Viking Star last January, we knew were sailing into the Omicron outbreak and didn’t balk at wearing masks or submitting to a daily covid test. We knew the rules from the start.

By contrast, HAL had been lowering its testing requirements. There was nothing on their website that warned us we’d be forced to wear masks on board. Someone at HAL is throwing his/her weight around when the covid crisis is virtually over. It’s an endemic bug we’re learning to live with, like the flu. There’s no need to disrupt our mode of life, to shut off communication, to make us afraid of each other, to cause us to lose brain cells because we are constantly re-breathing old oxygen-depleted air.  Mask-wearing sucks all the joy out of this cruising experience because it’s so arbitrary and unnecessary.

We have over 100 days afloat with this cruise line, but this may well be our last voyage with Holland America.

In Which We Arrive Alive...

 

October 8, 2022

The hardest thing about travel is leaving our furbabies, Charlie & Albert behind. Fortunately, #2 Daughter takes excellent care of them!

Our Alaska Airline flight was about ten minutes late, but we arrived at SEA-TAC a few minutes ahead of schedule. Managed to snap a few shots from the plane as we made our descent.

Mt. Ranier pokes its head out of the cloud cover into the sunshine while the rest of the much lower Cascades huddle wetly in shadow. When we lived in Seattle, we often spoke of Ranier as being "out" or not. Sometimes it was invisible. Sometimes it seemed to hover in midair with its base shrouded. A very odd old volcano. 

The DH was playing with his filters for this one. The shift in colors makes the mountain range seem very "atmospheric." I almost expect to hear the spooky strains of Mussorgsky's Night on Bald Mountain!  

Our Holland America transfer was waiting near the baggage claim for us and we were whisked away to Pier 91. Because we used to live in Seattle, right downtown at the corner of 2^nd & Vine, it was lovely to see the city again.

The DH had filled in all the pre-boarding requirements on the HAL app so check-in was a breeze. We waltzed onto the ship in time for lunch in the main dining room. Our luggage was waiting for us in our stateroom and we found a place for everything—the main challenge of living in a floating “tiny house!”

Almost there! The Eurodam gangway is just ahead! As you can see, there was no line for this embarkation. That may have been because we were so early arriving.

When we get home, I'll add some photos of our lovely balcony stateroom, since I'm using the DH's hotspot to post and things are moving slowly data-wise, I figured it would be best to just "use my words." One of the nice discoveries about Cabin 8150 is that we have two foot stools in addition to our chairs on the balcony.

A feathered stowaway!

And now I can pop out there and relax and shake my head at how silly I am to fret over making our way to the ship.

The Requisite Pre-Cruise Nightmare...

 43 degrees, but the sun is just barely up. I'll be 80 this afternoon.

Who's to say that dreams and nightmares aren't as real as the here and now?” ― John Lennon

OK. It's official. We must be going someplace. I've had my compulsory pre-cruise nightmare.

Last night I dreamed about a part of cruising that, for me, feels nightmarish even when I'm awake. It's called "getting to the port." 

When we lived in Boston, it was so lovely to be able to call a cab and after a 15 or 20 minute ride, we were handing our bags off to the porters. I didn't fully appreciate the convenience and luxury of that time. But Boston was the only place we've lived where it worked out that way. 

We usually have an overnight in a hotel, sometimes two, before we reach the ship. This time, it's just one night in St. Louis because our non-stop to Seattle is very early on Saturday morning, which is also the day we board the Eurodam.  Usually, I like to overnight in the departure port, but we've been monitoring the Alaska Airlines non-stop and it's been on time or only a few minutes late for weeks. So once we're on board the plane, our chances of making the ship are pretty good.  

But my dream had to do with the overnight hotel before our flight where we were warned against waggling all our baggage up to our rooms. Instead, the hotelier suggested we put them in a storage locker with a padlock. But that seemed silly to me. And more than a little troubling. If someone had designs on our duds, all they'd need was a bolt cutter. And if the room wasn't safe for our luggage, who's to say we could rest easy there? 

Fortunately, that was when I work up...

October 7, 2022

Okay, a couple days of frantic packing has passed and we've driven the 4 1/2 mile trip up to St. Louis. We're settled in the Holiday Inn Express near the airport where we always stay before we fly. It's clean and convenient and we've never had a single bad experience here. And we're first on the list for the 6AM shuttle to Lambert International.

Just goes to show my brain in dream state is not to be trusted!