February 8, 2022
Sorry, Charles. I still feel wonder, admiration and devotion when confronted with this unnecessarily beautiful world. It proclaims a Great Mind at work and to deny this is to deny ourselves. I'm in Francis Collins' camp. He's the brilliant scientist who headed up the Human Genome Project that mapped out the billions of sequences of genes that make us human.
Faith is reason plus revelation, and the revelation part requires one to think with the spirit as well as with the mind. You have to hear the music, not just read the notes on the page. ~ Francis Collins
Today, I heard the music.
I had anticipated a day to reflect on the glorious wonders of the Amalia glaciers and Punta Arenas. Part of that reflection took place in the art class, led by Damian, one of our excellent assistant cruise directors (and he's also a superb vocalist. The DH and I enjoyed using watercolor instead of acrylics this time, though we both confess to frustration of feeling less in control over the process. Still our paintings spoke of the misty loveliness of the glaciers we'd seen and captured some of our feelings of awe.
We'd moved through the channels away from the glaciers during the night and passed through to the open sea for the morning. By noon, the Star's nose pointed eastward and we entered what I believe to be the Beagle Channel, named for the ship that carried Charles Darwin around South America and up to the Galapagos, where his theory grew and his faith shrank. What awaited us in that channel was total majesty, wonders on wonders, and the DH and I were glued to our balcony lest we miss the next scene of majesty that came into view as we glided along.
I tell you all that so you'll understand when I say I've never seen the like of the southern coast of Tierra del Fuego.
The mountain tops grew taller, the ice sheets thicker, the waterfalls plummeted for hundreds of feet. We heard the largest of them roaring before we rounded a bend and saw it gushing down the mountainside in a yellow torrent. Millions of gallons of fresh water poured into the sea, turning the waves from turquoise to milky green from all the minerals and sediment the glacier had collected in the Andes and carried with it to sea level.I'll let the DH's photo montage tell the rest of the story. Even though our pictures don't begin to capture the scale, the vibrancy of colors, the textures and cleavages in the rock, the fresh breath of snow-washed air, I hope you'll feel a little of the awe we experienced this day. It was a day to thank God for our eyes, for allowing us to see these wonders, and for being able see them together!
Near suppertime, we anchored at Ushuaia (pronounced "Oo-swy-ah") Argentina to take on more fuel. We weren't allowed to disembark, so I can't scratch the country off my world map, but at least we could dine in a sort of Argentine-adjacent way. Ushuaia boasts of being the southernmost city in the world. However, now that expedition tourism is picking up, Chile is building a town on Isla Gordon, south of Ushuaia, so they can claim the honor of being the farthest south.
Such a starkly beautiful, wild and lonely place. It only takes people to introduce conflict, doesn't it?
Our evening entertainment was Tanya Roberts, a soprano who sang musical theater, opera and jazz a few days ago. Very nice lyric voice. I'll be looking forward to hearing her second performance in a few days.
Rumors scurry through the hallways of the Star faster than rats on the old sailing ships. Some say we're going to make a run for the Horn tomorrow. Since the Drake Passage has been a notorious ship-eater in the past, I'm sure it will be dependent on the weather.
But honestly, never in my life did I ever think I'd even be this close to the Horn, let alone possibly sailing around it.
More soon... and remember, if you read this via Follow It, you may be missing the DH's video montage, so be sure to click on the title of the post to be taken directly to RoundTheWorldWriter!
Eenjoying your blog although i wish the photos were larger. You sailed through the Canal Beagle Brazo Noreste - Northeast Arm of the Beagle Channel. It was my favorite scenic cruising of our entire cruise. Breathtaking!! Too bad you couldnt visit Ushuaia. Hiking in Tierra del Fuego National Park was magnificent.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the input, Tomko. I'll try to make them bigger in the future. One nice thing about the DH's montage is that you can always click in the lower right corner to make the photos fill your screen.
DeleteMy friend Kristy always says cruising is like a sampler platter. You only get a taste of each place you visit, but at least you get a good sense of where you'd like to come back for a second look!
Loved the montage and your written descriptions. Interesting to read that Chile is building a town on Isla Gordon. Hoping to do an Antarctic cruise in the future so wonder if that is where we will leave from.
ReplyDeleteIt will probably depend on which cruise line you choose. I think they tend to develop working relationships with certain ports.
DeleteLove following you and B around the world!!!! Thank you for opening your door so others can enjoy!!
ReplyDeleteIt's our pleasure, believe me, Kathy! We feel so blessed, sharing our experiences is the least we can do! Plus I love armchair traveling myself. Glad you've hopped in my pocket for this trip!
DeleteWhen I did my first Hurtigruten Coastal Voyage of Norway, the Captain told me they would be cruising via Patagonia to Antarctica. He said Tierra Del Fuego was the most spectacularly beautiful region of anywhere in the world. I dreamt of cruising there. However, by the time I cruised to Antarctica on Hurtigruten, they departed from Ushuaia. You'll have to add Ushuaia to your wish list, like I have for Patagonia. Thank you for sharing your interesting blog which I always enjoy. Marion
ReplyDeleteThe entire trip from Punta Arenas, Chile to Ushuaia was spectacular! I wish we could've set foot on Argentina, but it's good to have travel goals. Antarctica is on my list, but it's a little iffy for me. My portable oxygen concentrators don't work well in temperatures below 40 degrees. Thanks, Marion.
DeleteThe last two posts have brought back memories (and sent me back to my notes and photos) of my land/sea trip to Patagonia 8 years ago. We went overland from Buenos Aires to Torres del Paine Natl Park and then on to Punta Arenas (many stops along the way). We boarded a small ship and sailed through the Beagle Channel and Glacier Alley and disembarked at Cape Horn. That was some of the worst weather I have ever experienced (and this was in March). It was sleeting sideways! But what an experience! We then left our ship at Ushuaia. A very interesting town; too bad you couldn't visit it. Thanks for the memories!
ReplyDeletespeaking of bad weather, Anne, I forgot to mention that biologists have discovered the southernmost tree in the world on Isla Horn. It's a Magellan Beech, but it's grown so it lays almost flat on the ground because of the persistent strong winds!
DeleteInteresting to know that Hurtigruten is sailing in the Antartic region. It makes sense. We loved our Bergen to Kirkenes cruise with them years ago, but especially because it felt like we were really IN Norway with regular people getting on and off -- even a youth soccer team one evening. I wonder if that homey feeling would translate in the far Southern latitudes, even if the sailing challenges and weather were similar.
ReplyDeleteYour posts are so well written. I am "seeing" these places without having been there. Thank you for sharing.
ReplyDelete