Day 32, 33 & 34 ~ Water, Water Everywhere

February 10, 11, & 12, 2022

NAUTICAL TERM OF THE DAY ~ Booby hatch

On board a ship, a booby hatch is a sliding cover a hatch that must be pushed away to allow access or passage. 

The 10th of February is my mother's birthday. She's 85 now and just as beautiful and ornery as ever. But I wasn't able to be with her to celebrate her life. I should have bought a present and left it with the girls, but I didn't think about it ahead of time. Then on board ship, I tried to log on to a women's clothing website I favor so I could order something to be delivered to her, but our connection on the ship is still pretty spotty. (The scuttlebutt is that one of our antennae has broken, to which I say, well, fix it! The Viking crew is constantly cleaning, repairing and tending every aspect of the Star. But perhaps that sort of maneuver is more safely accomplished snugged up to a dock.) Anyway, I feel badly that, other than a few texts, I wasn't able to make a connection with her on her special day. 

Breakfast on the fantail is our guilty pleasure. (Notice the DH still doesn't have the earring in his left lobe his trip around the Horn entitles him to!)

We've had three sea days since leaving the Horn, but don't think for a minute that time hangs heavily on our hands. Everything about seafaring is fascinating to me. Our friend Dave has an app on his phone that tracks all the ships we encounter. He happened to notice a crowd of small vessels that were holding station near our path, so he got up in the middle of the night to see if their running lights would show up against the dark sky. Here's his photo:

We discovered later that they were Chinese fishing boats that, according to our captain, operate outside the international laws governing fishing. They don't limit their catches. They don't avoid endangered species. They take everything caught in the net. I understand they have lots of mouths to feed, but it's not sensible to hunt or fish an area to depletion. China is actually a pretty important influence in South America. It is Chile's major trading partner. And they've made significant investments in Panama. No one seems interested in policing their fishing practices.

Enrico, the pianist who plays with the Viking band, performed an excellent solo program one evening. He's from the Philippines, but his passion and degree is in Western Classical Music. We were treated to Mozart, Beethoven, and Schubert, all played with equal portions of precision and feeling. So talented and yet so humble and gracious. I was captivated! I told him I hoped they'd feature him again, and he promised he's working on a Chopin recital. I can't wait!

We also enjoyed second performances by Tanya Roberts, whose "Someone to Watch Over Me" was especially touching, and Mark Hussey, a classical guitarist. His flamenco piece entitled "Prayer" was a revelation. He explained that the music is not written down. It is learned by rote and this piece has no particular meter to reign it in. It was a cry of the spirit too deep for words, ethereal and moving, offered up with yearning in the hope that Someone is listening.     

Kristy with Lobster Mac & Cheese!

Of course, there is food everywhere on the Viking Star, and with the added bonus of being able to sit and visit without masks, there is a temptation to linger over our meals. Every other day or so, we lounge in the thermal suite, going from the relaxing thalassotherapy pool, to the invigorating snow grotto to the restful stone lounges, all maskless since the number of people in the spa is strictly regulated and by appointment only.  Still, we mask most of the time, both on board and when on excursions. Even with some European countries and the governors of some States declaring the pandemic over and suspending mask mandates, I suspect we will still be wearing masks and spitting into test tubes each morning right up to the day when we float into Bergen in May. 

I've had ample time to read, finishing three books and just starting on the fourth: Tiamat's Wrath & Leviathan Falls (books 8 & 9 in James S.A. Corey's sci-fi tour de force The Expanse series), The Ocean at the End of the Lane by Neil Gaiman (as weirdly wonderful as all his stories are!), and The Paradise Wars by Steven Lawhead (clever writing and an interesting quasi-otherworldly set up. Not far enough along to give my full opinion, but I'm hooked.)

Every day aboard the Viking Star is an incredible gift! Tomorrow we dock in Montevideo, Uruguay. 

More soon...