Day 73 ~ Valetta, Malta

“Once safely on shore, we found out that the island was called Malta. The islanders showed us unusual kindness. They built a fire and welcomed us all because it was raining and cold.” ~ Acts 28:1-2. The account of the apostle Paul surviving a shipwreck after two weeks of being driven by storms across the Adriatic.

Unlike Paul’s experience, we’ve had smooth sailing in the Adriatic, and our day in Malta was pleasant and sunny. But like the biblical account, the islanders were still welcoming.

The Pacific Princess is berthed in the unique dog-legged harbor of Valetta. If you imagine the island of Malta as whale-shaped, Valetta is located about where the blowhole should be. The harbor is why the island has been a haven for seafaring peoples since the Phoenicians plied these waters.

Our tour guide, Anna, told us the two official languages of Malta are Maltese, which is a Semitic language. Because the island is so isolated, the language is more closely related to ancient Arabic than any other in use today. The second official language is English, because the Brits were here, safeguarding the island as a protectorate during the 20^th century. In their wake, they left their language, left handed driving and ubiquitous roundabouts! Children are taught both languages from the age of five. If high school graduates test well enough in English, they receive a free university education along with 85 Euros a month as a stipend.

Our first destination was Vittoriosa, one of the older towns of Malta. After the Europeans abandoned Jerusalem and the Crusades, the Knights of St. John were granted Malta in the 1530’s. In the 1580’s, an Ottoman fleet of 30,000 fighters invaded the island. Eleven thousand knights defended the island in a vicious, bloody struggle. Atrocities were committed on both sides. The knights lined roadways with crucified bodies of captured Turks. The Turks lobbed the severed heads of vanquished knights into the stronghold. After four months, the Turks gave up and sailed away, never to attack Malta again. Hence the name of the town, Vittoriosa.

Our next stop was Marsaxlokk, Malta's main fishing village. Anna told us that the Phoenicians named any harbor with a word that began with ‘Mars.’  The traditional fishing boats all have the “eyes of Horus” painted on either side of the prow for protection.  

Then we traveled to Ta'Qali Crafts Village to view a traditional silver filigree artist at work. Some of the filaments she used were no thicker than an eyelash. An 8 pointed Maltese cross was a favorite design. 

Nearby, we visited Mdina glassware and watched a team of glass blowers. Each artisan had a particular part of the goblet to complete before it was handed off to the next worker.

From these workshops, we caught a glimpse of the ancient walled city of Mdina that used to be Malta’s capital. It’s also known as the Silent City because no cars are allowed in. The streets are far too narrow to accommodate them.

We made a quick photo stop at the Assumption Church in Mosta, but were too close to actually get a picture of the dome. It is massive and is said to be the 3^rd largest in Europe. During WWII, Mosta was bombed by the Germans and the church was hit. The bomb crashed through the dome during a church service, but did not detonate. When they gathered the courage to take it apart, they found a note from the bomb makers wishing them well. The bomb had been sabotaged at the factory by some brave soul who saved countless lives.

Our last stop was at Villa Arrigo, a charming building rented out for weddings and major events, in Naxxar. We were served freshly brewed coffee, assorted finger sandwiches with the crusts cuff off (a legacy of the Brits again!) and a slice of lemon and meringue dessert.

Malta is a lovely place.  If I’m ever lucky enough to return, I’d love to explore the city of Mdina. It calls to me, the ancient voice inviting me to enjoy its medieval stillness.

"Sahha!" (Maltese for "Good Health!")