Day 68 ~ Koper

March 31, 2018

“Slovenia—the only European country with ‘love’ in its name!” ~ Mateja, our tour guide

Last night we cruised back across the Adriatic to the chicken-shaped country of Slovenia. (No, really, can’t you see the outline of a chicken on this map?)

Koper is an important port in the Med. Slovenia only has 47 kilometers of water front but all cars manufactured for export in Germany, France and Italy are shipped around the world from here. The area has a long history, but as an independent country Slovenia is quite young—only 26 years. That’s when the former Yugoslavia was dissolved and the six states that comprised it were granted sovereignty.

But we didn’t stay in Koper, no matter how longingly the DH eyed the rows and rows of Mercedes and Alfa Romeos waiting to be loaded onto ships. Instead we took a tour to Lipica through the karst area of the country (Read: the same rocky soil we saw in Croatia) up by the Julian Alps to see where the beautiful Lipizzaner horses are bred and trained.

We love horses. When we lived in Wyoming, we had a gelding and a mare. Even more than riding them, I miss the warm dusty smell of horses, their sweet breaths and soft noses. Teddy Roosevelt is credited with saying there’s something about the outside of a horse that’s good for the inside of a man. Amend that to the inside of women too, and I think he’s onto something.

The Lipizanner breed was developed in 1580 for a Hapsburg ruler. They are a unique combination of Andalusian and the sturdy local horse breed. The foals are born black and over time, they turn white.   The mares are never put through the rigorous dressage training the stallions are given. Instead, they are coddled and cared for like jewels. At the beginning of the show, these lovely ladies were led out into the riding ring by hostlers they obviously trusted and were let loose to run free. I understood suddenly why the Greeks imagined a horse with wings. With the ethereal music of Pachelbel’s Canon in D playing in the background, the mares ran in long ovals or figure eights with such strength and grace, I confess I wept at the sudden expected beauty of that moment. And I thanked God that such lovely creatures exist. 

The dressage demonstration was precise and amazing. There was such trust between the riders and their stallions. Those horses would have done anything for the man or woman (Yes! There were many female riders!) on their backs.

I was surprised to learn that part of the stallions' training involves pulling a cart, singly, in pairs or in teams of four. It makes sense because the dressage riders use two hands on the reins instead of neck-reining western style.

After the stud farm, we drove a little farther to a sleepy village called Hrastovlja to see the tiny hidden gem of a church dedicated to St. Trojice. Consecrated in 1475 during the time when the Black Death was ravaging Europe, every square inch of the church is decorated with remarkably well-preserved frescos. Scenes from the life of Christ and the 7 days of Creation are spread over the ceiling and above the altar. It was designed as a primer for the important elements of faith for a populace that was largely illiterate at the time.

The church was tucked behind the walls of this hilltop fortress.

The most unique work is the Danse Macabre along one wall that shows people from all walks of life, peasants to kings, with a skeleton dancing on each arm, a solemn reminder that death comes to all.

At supper we were joined by two senior officers—Leo Pavan, the Hotel Manager, who’s in charge of everything on the ship that isn’t mechanical or nautical, and Elliot Moncrieff, the Food & Beverage Director, who makes sure we don’t run out of anything in the kitchen or the bars. It was a full table but a happy one. I tried not to think about the fact that Vicki and Craig will be leaving us soon.

Shirley, David, Elliot, David, Emily, Raj, the DH, me, Leo, Craig, & Vicki

The evening show was a folkloric presentation featuring traditional Slovenian dancing and music. I’m so glad Princess arranges for us to get a taste of the local culture in this way. It reminded me of a combination of square dancing and Regency era line dances. 

   

Tomorrow we’ll be in Venice for Easter—the place Lord Byron called “a fairy city of the heart!”

Princess goes all out to decorate for the holidays with food! The aroma of chocolate was intoxicating.